the beauty lies within in god’s own country.
it sleeps beneath the soil and ‘neath the sand.
it’s our mothers and fathers, our heroes and martyrs,
for god’s in the people and people are the land.['God's Own Country' from The Beautiful Game.]
There are countries in the world that people envision always in the present moment; countries of progress, fashion and modernity. Some of these eternal-present countries are steeped in their past and the hallmarks of ancient struggle and past triumphs shape that present — America, in particular, is like that with its national myth being a progress narrative that tips its forelock constantly to the Founding Fathers. On the flipside, there are countries that seem to be so deeply entrenched in a sense of their mythic past and historical struggles that everyday life is always, always coloured by it. I’ve been living in Ireland for the last two and a half years, and I don’t feel like I’m being too daring to say that Ireland is most definitely one of these countries.
The physical landscape is peppered with ruins of castles, abbeys and abandoned cottages and there’s a mound or dolmen of some significance usually within a half-hour drive of wherever you might be. Holy wells and sacred rivers tumble over rocks that were once part of a long-ago boundary, and you never have to look hard for an agricultural field that mows or grazes animals around a fairy bush that the farmer would never dare disturb. Superstition and myth are carved into rock and soil, and that (along with the legacy of eight hundred years of oppression by the English) echoes in the national character.
This is a land of emigration — the songs and stories will tell you that as surely as the massive quantity of North Americans who all claim Irish descent — but also a land that bares the scars of invasion like a chip on the shoulder. It’s strange to be a foreigner in Ireland. (Stranger still to have an Irish passport and to have been told you’re Irish your whole life and still be a foreigner in Ireland.) The land itself — to say nothing of the people — is wary of newcomers, and even coming from the next county over can mark you as ‘not from around here’, and that matters more than I had realised. As I pointed out in my ‘E is for England‘ post, I’ve never had a really true sense of what Irishness means, but there’s a lot of people over here who are willing to tell you what it’s not.
“Genuine Irish family ancestry does not make you Irish. [...] If your great-great-great-granny came across the waters on a famine ship… and you are the end result of that emigration, it certainly does not make you ‘more Irish’ than somebody who may not have ‘Irish blood’ in the veins but has lived in or often visited this land, has taken time to observe the culture, learn the language… and gotten to know the people and their peculiarities aplenty. [...] Proclaiming the words ‘I am Irish,’ to me, means you are currently living in Ireland or have at least spent a good part of your life… actually living in this land.”
(Lora O’Brien, Irish Witchcraft from an Irish Witch, p 27-28)
The sentiment is an increasingly common one. The internet lately seems as riddled with people denying anyone ownership of anything as the Irish landscape is with sacred sites. I’ve seen people’s personal connections, religious practices and religio-cultural identities criticized on grounds of blood/ancestry (as above: just because you’re descended from X doesn’t mean you are X); on grounds of location (living here doesn’t mean you can worship the gods from here); or on grounds of personal affinity (what connection do you have to any of this, you dilletante?). And on the flip-side, I’ve seen arguments that each of those grounds — ancestry, location, personal affinity — are the only ones that matter (worship the gods of your ancestors; you need to be here to do this work; follow your heart and instincts). It’s a terribly thorny path to navigate and one that everyone seems desperate to claim the high ground on.
This all connects back to my last post on whether I’m a heathen or not, in sentiment if nothing else. I am of Irish descent (on both sides, actually; my father was the first of his family to leave this island and my mother’s parents were both the firsts in their families) and I am living here in Ireland. But the gods who call to me are largely not gods from around these parts. (N.B. I say gods specifically, because local wights are an entirely different thing and my relationship with them is just fine, thank you.) The gods who I work with and for are gods of a race of invaders to this island: the Vikings. Aside from the inevitable inbreeding when a race of conquerors settles somewhere, I can’t trace any Scandinavian heritage in my bloodlines; I’ve yet to visit any of their homelands; and my knowledge of their languages extends only as far as some translations that I’ve been doing of rune poems with Talas’ assistance. According to some schools of thought, I shouldn’t be permitted to worship Freyr and Freyja. But according to others, I’m not Irish enough to honor Brigid, Lugh or Dagda, either. If I was asking permission, I’d be kind of put out.
I’ve been an immigrant for basically my whole life, even to the country I was born in (again, see ‘E is for England‘ for more on that) and that does offer a different perspective on the whole residency/nationality debate. It changes your sense of place (as a concept) and of places (as discrete locations), because if you’ve only ever been one somewhere, that somewhere is your whole world. You live your life the only way you know life to be lived, because everyone around you lives like that. When I was younger, I remember my grandparents saying that “there’s none so Irish as the Irish abroad”, and whether it is literally true, there’s an emotional resonance to the sentiment because the Irish diaspora are tied by their heartstrings to a sense of home, and the traditions they honour are cultivated and chosen rather than habitual. It’s the flipside to a country with so long a history of emigration: the immigrants go somewhere, and they bring pieces of Ireland with them. Those pieces might be fragmentary or distorted, but they connect back to some kernal of truth, some greater, more mythic sense of Ireland than mundane reality.
Personally, I connect more to my sense of the Irish diaspora than to an ‘actual’ Irish identity, especially having lived here now. Ultimately, I can’t say where I’ll be in ten years’ time, if we will still be here or not, but the time I’ve spent here has broadened my understanding of heritage and home and ancestry — all fraught issues in modern heathenry. One’s ancestral land is not always home, no matter how many songs and stories and traditionalists tell you so, and even if you do find a sense of belonging, it doesn’t mean that you won’t all the while be longing for somewhere else.
Being Irish, he had an abiding sense of tragedy, which sustained him through temporary periods of joy.
- William Butler Yeats








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